Lemon balm leaf 30 g

A whole sprig gives up its resin slowly, so the potatoes under it never turn bitter. The Radin family near Buzet dries young sprigs whole.

Wild oregano is sharper and drier than the garden kind, so it goes in at the end and the smell survives. Luka Šarić gathers it on the dry meadows above Lovinac and dries it in a thin layer, unground.

Half a teaspoon is enough for a whole tray of biscuits — lavender takes over everything else quickly. Irena Horvat near Klanjec strips the flowers from the stems only after slow shade drying.

Rub a leaf between your fingers and you will see why sage needs a light hand. Ana Jurić grows it near Benkovac and shade-dries it the day she picks it.

Winter savory is oregano's sharper cousin and holds up through a long simmer, so it goes in at the start. The Radin family near Buzet cuts it just before it flowers and dries it in an airy loft.